Art and a castle

The hotel I’m staying in has a lot to recommend it. It is not far from the main Copenhagen station, my room has an excellent shower, and they don’t clean up every day. This last may not seem important but, I have always worried about how much extra washing daily cleaning requires. Environmentally, it has to be better.

Another nice thing is the personalised mirror in the bathroom.

Not that I spent a lot of time admiring the reflective messages. This morning I was up and out and heading for the Metro in order to visit the National Art Gallery or SMK as it’s more correctly called.

The Metro, while very convenient to the hotel, was very crowded. Mirinda would no have caught it. It was the Sardine Special. Given I’m quite a lot made up of sardine, I managed to squeeze in and last the five stops before being spat out at Østerport at the beginning of Østre Anlæg, a park full of lagoons.

I was a bit early, so I popped up a hill to admire the work of Danish sculptor Louis Hasselriis (1844-1912). He is known for his small sculptures, but this is pretty massive. In fact, it used to out the front of the Art Gallery, but they decided it wasn’t good enough, so they plonked it on top of a hill overlooking the building instead.

I think it’s pretty magnificent but, then again, what would I know? The art gallery is also pretty impressive so maybe the size of the monument was just too much.

Anyway, I managed to avoid a massive school group and flashed my Copenhagen Card (an excellent investment) and headed into the art. And what a lot of art there was. I was there for a couple of hours and still didn’t see everything. But, what I did see, was amazing.

The gallery has some extraordinary works, including an excellent St Sebastien…

Saint Sebastien (1615-1620) by Eugenio Cajes (1574-1634)

…an amazing Lot and his daughters, after half the act…

Lot and his Two Daughters (1625) by Claude Vicnon (1593-1670)

…and some delightful Fauvist pieces in the late French gallery.

I could type on for ages about the glories within the Danish National Gallery but, I’ll just leave it with my favourite piece. Which needs a slight introduction.

The painting is quite small, but I was struck by the face of the bull. It made me look longer and then laugh, as I read the title and studied the picture a little more closely.

Niels Klim thinks he hears the Deacon When he is Awakened by a Bull (1785-87) by Nicolai Abildgaard (1743-1809)

Nicolai Abildgaard was an interesting chap and, interestingly, his Wiki entry describes him as not well known outside Denmark. Which is true. I mean, I’d never heard of him. Whatever, I think his painting is quite funny.

Speaking of bulls, I saw the skeleton of an auroch later in the day…but I’m jumping ahead of myself.

I had intended to visit another art gallery but, honestly, the SMK was so vast and there were so many works to admire that I was, pretty much, arted out. I decided, instead, to wander across the road and visit Rosenborg Castle.

The castle was built as a country seat by Christian IV in the early 17th century. Country seat? It was obviously a lot different then because now it’s not that far from the centre of Copenhagen.

The thing is, it’s full of lots of art. Though, of course, it’s a castle and has lots of rooms to wander around and three floors of royal stuff to gawp at.

To be completely honest, I found it a bit depressing. The amount of ivory, gold and priceless bits and pieces made me despair. I couldn’t help but think about the poor at the time and how these people, who were no more or less than the peasants, could hoard such treasure and watch their subjects starve.

Or maybe it’s just me.

A lot of people were wandering around the castle giving great gusts of oohs and ahhs at the opulence. And, to be fair, I joined in the general admiration for the scores of miniatures on display. And, obviously, the ivory sculptures are extraordinary but how can you ignore the number of elephants that had to die to provide a king with something fancy?

Of course, another part of me is sort of glad that someone was wealthy enough to pay the best crafts people to make such beautiful objects but…well, it doesn’t bear thinking about.

The castle is pretty amazing, if you ignore the ivory. There’s one room, the first room you enter, that is being completely renovated and, in a rare occurrence, the visitor gets to see what it looks like underneath all the paintings and panelling, ceiling and flooring. That, I thoroughly enjoyed. With no reservations.

Anyway, I’m getting a tad concerned that this entry is getting a bit too long. After the castle, I went to the Danish National History Museum, the main reason I came to Copenhagen. It was so good that I’ve decided to visit again tomorrow so, it might be best if I write about it then.

Dinner was a slight affair and, I was in bed quite early, watching sport and drifting in and out of consciousness before finally giving up and going to sleep.

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Heading for Denmark

One of my favourite journeys is the train across the Oresund Bridge. Murder aside, I just find it beautiful. I was lucky enough to have a window today. The view is enchanting; the bridge is a masterpiece. In all, I caught three trains today and my ticket was checked only on the first one. Weird. Actually, on the last one – Malmo to Copenhagen – the two women sitting opposite suddenly spotted an inspector and had their phones ready. I copied, assuming the guard was coming from behind me. But it never happened.

The longest journey – Norrköping to Malmö – had me surrounded by all sorts. There was the loud guy who had about 30 phone calls, the little girl watching Elsa on her tablet while her vinyl trouser wearing mother, fussed over her with regular doses of sanitiser and an odd family who seemed obsessed with furries.

I watched Korean TV and slept through a couple of podcasts, so everything sort of washed over me.

I also read. One of the books I’m currently enjoying is a wonderful biography of Agrippina. I vaguely remember seeing the opera years ago and thoroughly enjoying that as well. Not that that has anything to do with why I travelled to Copenhagen today.

I have plans to visit the National Museum in order to see the Stone Age mini skirt and crop top. I am also going to visit the National Art Gallery and numerous other places of Gaz Interest.

But, all things begin with checking in. I did just that then went for a wander to find somewhere for dinner. I had a choice between an Irish pub, an English pub (next door), a Scottish pub and an Australian pub. I decided to bypass the national drinking holes and went to the Proud Mary for a pint of IPA and a burger.

It was the perfect start to my Copenhagen mini-adventure.

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Supermarket deer and café dogs

Rather than persistent fog, the first blue sky day since our return from Portugal bathed Trosa in sunshine today. We almost decided to move the deck furniture back outside. In fact, while Mirinda took the girls for a walk and I cooked a number of meals for her to have while I’m in Copenhagen, I opened doors to air the house. I’d call that a red letter day.

Of course, we popped out for brunch at Tre Små Rum, along with thousands of other people and their dogs, for some delicious eggs.

It’s really important to arrive at Tre Små Rum just after 11am otherwise you are hard-pressed to find a table. Of course, as the weather warms up, the outside becomes an option but, currently, in the wind, it’s still too cold. Even for me.

So, we arrive and take our chances. Like today, our chances were rewarded with our usual table and we settled down for the perfect brunch.

At a table next to us, a woman and her child were with, what appeared to be, a small horse. I think it was actually a Borzoi but I’m not 100% certain. Whatever breed it was, it was big enough to wear a saddle and a small jockey.

Not that our two were bothered. In fact, they barely recognised it as a dog. Freya, with great powers of self-preservation, tends to regard anything bigger than Emma as non-existent.

Speaking of large animals in unexpected places, I spotted a couple of deer in the ICA today where we went after brunch. I was a bit shocked though the woman in the photo wasn’t too bothered.

All a bit strange. Though it was a bit smaller than the dog in Tre Små Rum.

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Home grown

Mirinda and I want to eat more sustainably and be more concerned with animal welfare. To this end, Mirinda has been suggesting we shop more locally so today we headed out to Wappersta gård. Late last year KSP took Mirinda to the farm shop there when she was getting a Christmas ham and wanted to show Mirinda the amazing shop where all the meat is free-range and most of it is organic.

And what a great shop it was. I thoroughly enjoyed visiting.

And there wasn’t just meat. Eggs, cheese, sauces of all kinds, soap, and local honey (the best kind) were also for sale.

The woman (the farmer?) who served us took us through how the farm worked and, in particular, the life journey of the pork; from a local farmer who breeds them to the meat in the fridge. It was fascinating. We stocked up enough meat to last us for yonks.

Mirinda then wanted to head into Gnesta for some bird food so we stopped off on the way at another farm shop, this one with goat products. There were only cheese and eggs in the small shop. We bought three hard cheeses, all goat. The one we tried when we got home was delicious.

That’s the little shop at Sörbro Gård. We’ll have to return when they have more produce.

Back at home, and after a late lunch, Mirinda took the girls for a walk while I recorded my latest Letter from Sweden. You can listen to it here:

Much later, Mirinda chatted to Amanda while I prepared for Taco night, which we devoured in front of the telly because, of course, it was Mello tonight. The final final before the big final next week.

And what great fun it was. We picked the winners for this week though neither of them were as good as Bara bada bastu by Kaj. That’s our favourite for Eurovision. We were a bit sad that Ella Tiritello didn’t get in with Bara du är där.

I think we’ve (KSP and I) convinced Mirinda that Mello is wonderful and she should never miss another one. Ever.

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Dealing with children

So, the death of Gene Hackman, his wife, Betsy Arakawa and their dog continues to mystify. It seems they had been dead for around ten days, as indicated by the level of decomposition. Hackman was in a ‘mudroom’, whatever that is, and may have fallen. While Arakawa’s body was in a bathroom, with scattered pills and the still as yet unnamed dog was in a bathroom closet.

They had three dogs, all German shepherds. The other two were still alive and could come and go in and out of the house via a pet door. The local police are still investigating. There was no sign of foul play or death by noxious fumes. It sounds like an episode of CSI.

More shocking American news, though, was the meeting in the Oval Office between Trump, Vance and Zelenskyy where Trump and Vance, like a couple of schoolyard bullies, showed the world that it was now dealing with a backward country that has no idea how to behave on the world stage.

I find it fascinating that the Republican Party appears to now support Putin and the war. I guess, Trump will soon be giving military support to Russia because Zelenskyy was rude by not wearing a suit to their meeting. The US government becomes more childish by the day.

Anyway, enough of the world of the juvenile…here, in Trosa, nothing much happened. With me, at any rate. Though, obviously, I went shopping first thing.

I did manage to research another few soldiers for the Surrey History Centre, knowing that it will stop very soon. And I wrote a first draft for this month’s Letter from Sweden which I’ll record over the weekend.

Oh, and I woke up to a text message from KSP which featured four bags of crisps. They are in preparation for March 8, the Melo final.

‘Melo’ is how the kids say Melodifestivalen. Nicoline told us the other day, and I proved it is so. While chatting to one of the ICA staff this morning, and asked what I was doing on the weekend, I firstly replied not a lot then suddenly remembered and said “Melo!” to which she said “Of course!

Mirinda, on the other hand, was very busy. This semester, she has to write up each week of study on Fridays. She was working on that for most of the day.

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Geraldine’s kitchen skills

Gene Hackman has died. He was found, along with his wife (Betsy Arakawa) and dog (unnamed), in their Santa Fe home. He was 95 and battling dementia. While the Sante Fe police have said they have found nothing suspicious, it all sounds very suspicious to me. The couple were found in different rooms, for a start, and their front door was ajar. I haven’t read or heard anything about the dog.

Anyway, enough of that awful news.

Today I made a salmon and broccoli crustless quiche, from a recipe by the very talented Géraldine Leverd. I test ran a few of her recipes in June last year, in preparation for a cookbook that is due for release in April. Her food is delicious, and, generally, pretty easy.

The reason I decided to try her quiche is because it has hardly any carbs. And lots of protein. These are two important factors in Chez Gaz meals. It was also an excellent dinner given Mirinda was at uni today and she’d had a big salad for lunch and a quiche was perfect to have for a light meal.

And, when I took it out of the oven, it looked almost as good as the photo on Géraldine’s website (see the above link and judge for yourself). Okay, my broccoli is more submerged and the onion not as decorative but, still…

We ate about three quarters of it, so I can try the rest cold for lunch tomorrow.

I’d call that a success.

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New works in Trosa

When we first started looking at places to buy in Trosa, we booked in to see a property on Smäckbrogatan (which we call Smack Bottom because we’re puerile). The property seemed perfect on paper. It was falu red, had a guest house and a big old boulder in the front garden. We did a walk by before meeting the real estate agent. The traffic put us off, so we cancelled the visit.

Next door there was a church building which I didn’t know was a church building before I went on the SFI tour of historic Trosa and ended up there for fika. Well, not any more. While we’ve been away, it has been removed.

It was quite a shock when I walked passed this morning on my way to the System. The thing is, right next door, to the left of the photo, is the house we didn’t visit. So, while the traffic would have been bad, this and the subsequent building project ‘coming soon’ would have been awful. Especially considering it’s not expected to be finished until 2026.

Incidentally, the church is going to build something they call a ‘climate-smart parish hall’ in place of the old one, which was completed in 1972. I don’t know what that entails but I do know it’ll be a noisy construction zone for over a year.

Other changes in Trosa I noticed this morning include a new Thai/sushi place called Sawaddee. It’s where Trosa Bistro and Bar was. Then there’s the rest of the walkway along the river. I have mentioned the bit they’ve been working on from the centrum to the bridge at Bryggargränd and this new section goes from the bridge to Smack Bottom.

It’s currently a big trench.

However, the biggest and best change is Villa Tjugosju which is going into Visthuset. Villa Tjugosju, according to a sign placed in the window, will be a boutique and bistro and is due to open sometime before this summer. The insides of the building are currently being renovated. I’m just hoping they will serve coffee as good as Visthuset.

In electrical news…Lukas came round this afternoon to check out why the power in the stuga vanished. It appears that there is some sort of short in the cable that goes from the main house. He says they will need to run a cable direct from the distribution box at the front of the property. This will mean a trench being dug beside the drive. Hopefully, this will be fixed by next Tuesday.

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Setting out in life

In a move that has surprised us both, Tom has moved to Gibraltar. Mirinda Skyped Sophie this afternoon and was told that he has settled in to a Youth Hostel and has even managed to get a waiting job in a restaurant. He has threatened to go away for years and, it’s good to see, he finally got up and went. His independence is starting.

Of course, like any mother, Sophie has been clucking around him, making sure he’ll be okay, shoving money in his backpack, booking Easter accommodation to visit him, etc but, I think, she’s proud of him for going his own way.

Long gone is the young boy who took great delight in climbing all over me while we watched animated movies together. Oh, how I remember the number of times we watched Cloudy with a Chance of Meatballs. Here’s one from 2011.

Mind you, I’d always miss bits because of the wrestling. And, of course, there were the many Jedi lightsabre fights we had in our back garden at Farnham.

I have doubted whether he’d actually leave home and here he is, flying his own route. Well done, Tom.

We left home today and flew over to Nicoline’s for fika. We had a lovely chat, coffee and cake. (That sounds like a trendy bakery – “Meet your besties at Chat, Coffee and Cake, you won’t be disappointed.” The icon could be some variation of three C’s.)

Anyway, we caught up with the last month, describing various aspects of Portugal, not always in the most glowing terms. We also discovered that, while in Angola, Nicoline only had bacalhau to eat and she hated it. She said it made a potato look good. Mirinda, obviously, agreed.

Here’s the one I had at The Fonz:

It was a variation on the traditional bacalhau-a-bras in that it was the same ingredients but in a different configuration. It also had some delicious string beans.

Back at home, for dinner, we had roasted cod which, while the same fish, is nothing like bacalhau. Which was a good thing as far as Mirinda was concerned.

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Power outrage

A couple of weeks ago, we had a new heat pump installed in the stuga after the old one was declared dead. Yesterday, I went over to check how it was going. The stuga was beyond literally freezing on the Grace Scale (it was 3.4°), so I upped the temperature then tried to work out how to attach it to the wifi.

I left it to work its warming magic and went back to the house. I popped over later to find that the lights were no longer working. I had turned on a couple earlier and they worked but now, all lights were as dead as the old heat pump had been.

I noticed that the heat pump light was on, so I went in and checked the kitchen. No lights but the microwave and the oven were lit up. Okay, I thought, maybe the fuse had tripped the lights. Obviously, it was too dark to do anything so I left it for further investigation today.

This morning, I went over and, by this time, everything was powerless. Nothing, Nada. A complete shut-down of anything electrical. It was most disappointing. Just when you think everything is good, something turns bad.

Fortunately, the power in the house was okay which meant I could scan and shred for a bit and watch TV at lunchtime.

But it wasn’t just me and the stuga. Mirinda had her first day back at uni today and her train was delayed by an hour. It was very cold on the station. Due to the fact that the indicator board only updated around five minutes at a time, no-one was game to leave the platform and seek some warmer waiting.

On top of that, the fog that seems to have followed us all the way from Portugal is still hanging around. It feels like some horror movie malevolence.

Oh, and then, to cap the day off, Roberta Flack went and died. She was 88.

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Return to normality

Before we left for Portugal, I cleared my desk of all manner of stuff. The main things to go into a sort of mini storage were the three external drives I use for digital storage. These are, usually, backed up continuously. Naturally, I wasn’t taking them with us so they were disconnected and safely stored. This has meant that, every day, I receive a report from the backup software I use saying it couldn’t find the drives. It’s good to know it’s working.

Today, I reconnected them and it was like a new calm had taken over my laptop as lights flickered and motors whirred. Actually, there wasn’t a lot of whirring, I just thought it made the sentence sound better.

Another return to normal was my early morning trip to the ICA for shopping. It was excellent walking through the woods, wheeling my trolley and equally good seeing and chatting to people I sort of know. Including the young woman who I regularly speak Swenglish to. In fact, she was on the check-out this morning.

As we chatted about Portugal, she held up a turnip and asked me what it was. I pointed to the label and said, “Majrova.” Having run into this problem before, I always try and get one with a label. Anyway, she turned it round and laughed, entering it onto the register.

In English, it’s a turnip,” I explained.

I didn’t know that in either language,” She replied.

I so wanted to say, “Well, that’s a turnip for the books!” but didn’t think she’d get it.

Back at home, though, I told Mirinda and she laughed. Even though she doesn’t like puns much.

Another return to normal was Mirinda throwing the ball for Emma. Though, it seems that Emma has been spoiled by Jarne, the Belgian house sitter, who, it seems, threw it for hours. Emma stared at us as if to say how much she was missing him.

She then went and sulked in the rocking chair like the spoiled little princess she is.

Another return to normal is the fact that this post is quite dull.

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