This content is protected against AI scraping.
As I sat in Lille Europe station waiting for my first train of my return journey, I thought to myself that I hadn’t given enough explanation for the Biscuit Theory as referred to yesterday. And, given I had a bit of waiting time before getting to Cologne, I figured I’d expand the theory a bit.
The Biscuit Theory came about, originally, when John the Elder took a packet of butter biscuits which contained a plastic insert with a series of round holes, each of which contained around four biscuits.
In an attempt to explain how soil displacement worked, he demonstrated by taking a single biscuit from the packet and moving it to the table, creating a round spoil heap and, of course, a void where the biscuit had been.
Off course, the archaeologists at the table understood immediately. You dig a hole, you move the soil elsewhere. John the Younger was not convinced, so Anthea took the theory a step further by explaining how the Romans built forts (the biscuits) at Vindolanda.
Clearly this is merely scratching the surface of Biscuit Theory. I feel it needs more elucidation, but that will be another day.
Train #8: Lille Europe to Brussels midi
I enjoyed a very smooth and easy 30 minutes, during which I may have snoozed.
Arriving at Brussels midi, I discovered that my train to Cologne was leaving from Brussels nord today.
Fortunately, I had a big buffer.
Navigating the underground warren of platforms, I managed to find the one I needed.
Train #9: Brussels midi to Brussels nord
Ignoring the giggling girls who were sharing the train toilet, the short trip between stations was quick and quiet.
I headed to my platform and waited with a lot of other people who had also seen the announcement. I did wonder how many missed the train because they didn’t.
Train #10: Brussels nord to Cologne
Everything was going fine and then, for reasons unexplained, the train was being diverted onto another line, heading in a completely different direction. We eventually reached the peak of a railway triangle and sat at a small station waiting. Finally, we head back down the right-hand side of the very big triangle, which made us about 50 minutes late. Not that it mattered to me that much.
What did matter to me was that I tried ordering a coffee to my seat, like I have before, only to not have it delivered. I’m glad they don’t expect one to pay first! I ordered twice and it still didn’t arrive. It may arrive tomorrow, I guess, but I won’t be there.
I arrived in Cologne and headed straight for coffee at Starbucks.
Having revived somewhat, and having a couple of hours before check-in at my hotel, I locked my bag away in the very odd locker system they have installed at Cologne station. I have no idea how it works but you pay a few and a little door opens for you to put your bag in. The little door then closes and the bag disappears. When you return, you put a card in a slot and, voilà, the bag returns. All very mysterious. But handy. I do not know what happens if the wrong bag turns up.
Having marvelled at the wonders of the left luggage system, I headed across to the huge Gothic confection that is the Cologne cathedral. As well as being too big to avoid, it is also a UNESCO World Heritage site because it has the honour of being built for 700 years without the original plan being changed…much.
To be fair, it is extraordinary, although I couldn’t help but draw comparisons with the Lille cathedral from the other day. One being bright and airy and the other dark and gloomy, one feeling welcoming while the other feels like a threat. Still, for sheer size and ambition, Cologne is pretty impressive.
If the was any kind of god, I reckon it would be impressed though, presumably, a god could just make one, magically appear if it wanted. Mind you, it did keep people in work for over 700 years so there is that.
Inside, it is, as I said, dark and gloomy. It does have a lot of beautiful stained-glass windows, which provide a bit of light and story. This gives photographs more warmth than there actually is. But still, as I said, it is impressive.
The building work started in 1248 and continued, going through countless architects, engineers, Germans of all trades, labourers and priests, until October 1880 when it was finally completed.
While I wasn’t that keen on it, the hundreds of other people who were milling around with me, seemed to be awed somewhat. However, I was impressed by the mosaic floor around the back of the choir. I also rather liked the strange half human half bird creatures on one of the outside doors.
I am not sure why god created them but how they missed the ark is anyone’s guess.
Having supped sufficiently on the High Gothic monstrosity, I headed for the delightful Christmas market around the corner. It bears reporting that, while the Lille market had quite conspicuous security dotted around, in Cologne there was none visible. I’m sure there was some somewhere but it was wonderfully inconspicuous. Although, it should be said, there were a lot of people there aso it would have been a bit of a squeeze getting police in full body armour and submachine guns in as well.
It was all very festive and a lot nicer than the cathedral. There was even a kids show on the small stage in the middle. That is to say, it was show with kids as opposed to one for them.
I wandered around before heading back for my strangely stored bag (I managed to get mine back) then onto the hotel where I, basically, crashed. Last night, chatting, laughing and generally lacking much sleep, had done for me.
In fact, I ended up asleep by 8pm.
