Ascension Day is a public holiday in Sweden. I had forgotten that was today. (Oh how well I remember that day in 2012 when we were in Saumur.) Of course, bus timetables change and public holidays are often based on weekend timings. The bus I normally get to Liljholmen, for instance, leaves the centrum just after 9am. But, and this is the important thing here, not on Ascension Day.
I was sitting in the Mini car park bus shelter, on my way to Stockholm, in an attempt to see the exhibition I missed last week because of ‘technical problems’, when I suddenly realised, the bus had left half an hour earlier.
As it turned out, all was fine. I had to wait a little longer but caught the next bus to Vagnhärad and caught the train.
As well as a return to the Moderna Museet, I had intended to visit the newly opened Post Office Museum, but sadly, they are closed on public holidays. Which seems odd. Particularly given the crowds in Stockholm today. I reckon there were a fair few disappointed, stamp mad tourists. But, then again, it’s only fair that postal workers get Ascension Day off as well.
I changed tack and, for me anyway, the new exhibition at Liljevalchs was an excellent substitution. But, to begin with, I had to get to the Moderna Museet.
There was a massive queue for the tram at Central. I watched it drift by from the comfort of the almost empty bus 65 to Skepsholmen.
Floating Sea Palace is a video installation by Lap-See Lam. It tells an odd story about the Lo Ting: “Once upon a time, the fish people known as Lo Ting lived in harmony with nature. But they came to be coveted for their flesh, which tasted both strange and familiar. In their insatiable hunger, humans hunted them until only one Lo Ting remained.“
The story is also about the creation of the people of Hong Kong: A half-human, half-fish being in Pearl River Delta lore, Lo Ting is believed to be an ancestor of the Hong Kong people. Hunted by humans and split in two, the Lo Tings live a dual existence, not fully of the land nor the sea.
The room itself was lined in bamboo scaffolding with Chinese textiles, beautifully created by Kholod Hawash, hanging on it.
And the screen was very long, showing shadow puppet style representations of the Lo-Ting and the Dragon Boat, interspersed with actors telling the story, with a bit of singing by a woman representing the dragon.
I enjoyed it very much and was very glad I managed to see it.
Having sat in the room, watching the film and listening to the story, I needed a bit of refreshment. I headed for the café where I was entertained by a small child who had, obviously, just learned the pleasures of running. In particular, away from her parent. She was quite hilarious, though I’m not sure her mother agreed. Most amusing was the fact that she was grasping a laminated note with the words ‘Please do not remove from the table’ printed on it.
In order to go to Liljevalchs, rather than heading back into central Stockholm by bus, turning around and joining the very long tram queue, I decided it would far be more sensible and a lot more scenic, if I walked down to the pier and caught the ferry across the water to Djurgården.
And what a joyful reunion with a Stockholm ferry it was. The journey from Skepsholmen to Slussen was extremely pleasant. As we pulled into the first stop, a very long line of people was waiting to join us. The subsequent trip from Slussen to Djurgården was so crowded, I was surprised we remained above water.
Anyway, all was well and when the ferry disgorged the hordes, half went to Grona Lund, the other half to Skansen and I went left to the art gallery where I became acquainted with an interesting artist called Carola Grahn. And, while this is a first solo exhibition of her work, for me, at least, I have seen her work before. At the Moderna Museet, there is a wonderful wood stack sculpture of hers.
She was born in Jåhkåmåhkke (Jokkmokk), Saepmie, and is of Southern Sami descent. This becomes obvious as you look at her work. Incidentally, Jokkmokk is somewhere we hope to visit next February.
Anyway, this exhibition is called Drick Drick and is very imaginative, sometimes funny and always surprising. She has a knack for showing something that, on the surface maybe as bland as a broom but then, on closer examination, becomes something far greater.
The water fountain above, which constantly pours water into the glass which then runs over the sides and off the edges, made me very thirsty. I was tempted to take a drink but wasn’t sure if the water was recycled over and over and over and…you get my drift. Mind you, there wasn’t a sign that said I couldn’t.
But I didn’t.
My favourite piece was a series of knives, plunged into a very long wooden table. The piece was called Luhkietjijhtje nejpieh (Seventeen knives). It wasn’t the knives so much as the handles that I loved. Each one was carved by a different duojárat (Sami crafter) and had words added to them by Grahn.
As a whole, the table looked quite threatening, in a way – as if a lot of Vikings had just left the table having plotted the plunder of some far off land. Or maybe the scene in Asgard after the main course when they all go outside for a bit of fighting before dessert. But, when seen up close, the handles were exquisite. I liked this one very much.
There was also the amazing installation off the first floor landing. Called Snön it featured a balcony overlooking continuous snowfall in dim wintertime light. It was quite mesmerizing, particularly if you have the room to yourself. There was a family with two very playful children in there before me, and I don’t think it would have been quite the same. I’m not saying it wouldn’t have been as good, just different with noisy kids.
There was also the wonderful speaker which would play joiking if you put a token in it. There were different tokens for different joiks. It was splendid fun.
Another bit of fun, which only goes to show that modern art can be funny as well serious and meaningful, was her series called MILF. Here is Stephanie…
It made me laugh, anyway. Then I took the serious Feminist message away with me, having seen Nina and Filippa as well.
All in all, my only complaint would be the scarcity of works. I could easily have enjoyed a lot more. Still, as they say, better some than none at all. Actually, I think I may have just made that up so ‘they’ don’t say it at all. Whoever ‘they’ are.
Of course, by this time, having left Liljevalchs, I was ready to head home, fighting the crowds and generally being jostled on trams.
I did see a little dog with the same tongue issue that Freya has. I couldn’t tell if he had teeth or not but experience tells me not.
Now, you’d think that would be enough for one day, wouldn’t you? And you’d think wrong.
Eventually, having returned to Trosa, I was met by Mirinda who informed me that it was KSP and Jonas’ wedding anniversary, and we were going to celebrate with sushi on our deck.
I have no problem with sushi or guests, so I was totally up for it. KSP and Jonas had been at a fishing thing in Trosa so had been up since 6am. KSP had difficulty keeping her eyes open. 6am? Pah!
But, we all had a jolly good laugh and finished the celebrations in the time-honoured, customary Swedish fashion, with a princess cake.
Incidentally, it was also Freya’s birthday today (she’s ten now) but she didn’t get a cake.
