Mirinda had a lunch date today. She was meeting some people in a big business type place in a town called Leiria. We parked in the biggest car park I’ve ever seen which is outside a massive football stadium because, apart from a business type place where executives lunch, Leiria also has a football team.
União Desportiva de Leiria are in the second Portuguese league and have had a history of changing fortunes (generally bad) since their foundation in 1966. The ground holds almost 24,000 and I doubt they’d fill it very often.
Anyway, there wasn’t any football on today so, while Mirinda had her lunch, I went searching for some sustenance of my own. And I found not one, but two Japanese restaurants. How could I possibly ignore this strange kind of foodie omen.
I decided on Restaurante Ginza and boy did I choose right. The food was excellent. It was an all-you-can-eat type place where you pay a fixed amount, then write down the numbers of the food you want. They then bring you plate after plate of different bits and pieces. It was delicious. My only complaint would be that they didn’t serve ramen, but that’s a minor quibble given the quality of the food.
Following my unexpected Japanese feast, I then strolled across to the park that runs through one part of Leiria. It borders both sides a rather long and pleasant park where numerous people actually walk along paths especially made for people who walk. The only vehicle other than shoes that I saw was a scooter.
And dogs. There were people walking dogs. One dog even came over and had a brief visit with me.
It was all so delightful that I sat for a bit and had a read in the sun.
As the time ticked relentlessly on, I decided to head for the castle that sits atop a big hill in the town. I was standing, waiting for the funicular to the top, when Mirinda texted to say she was finished with her business lunch. She didn’t fancy the funicular, so we returned to the car and headed for an old monastery in a small place called Batalha.
It’s the amazingly ornate and very tall Mosteiro de Santa Maria da Vitoria, which as well as being massive, is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
It was getting a bit late to go in and wander around so we put that off for next time, but we did walk around the outside of the whole place, marvelling at the intricate carvings and excessive height. It really was very tall. We went into the free bit to look down the nave, and the ceiling was too far away to see properly.
Awe-inspiring is a term that sits perfectly in this place.
But it wasn’t just the monastery that impressed us. The town around the building was almost free of cars. There was a pedestrianised area full of eateries, exclusive and tatty tourist shops and a place called The King’s Pub.
Okay, there was the almost constant traffic noise from a nearby highway but, you didn’t have to keep alert in case someone drove into you as you strolled around. It was a shame we were both full up because an early dinner would have been lovely in front of the monastery.
Anyway, the monastery has a very interesting history. It was started in 1386 to honour the decisive victory of the Portuguese over the Castilians at the Battle of Aljubarrota in 1385. It was to thank the Virgin Mary because, apparently, she helped them win. I don’t know who the Castilians blamed for their loss.
The place wasn’t completed until 1517 and went through the reigns of seven kings and quite a few architects. The first architect was a chap called Afonso Domingues. He seems to have copied English churches a bit because there are hints of Canterbury Cathedral and York Minster to be seen by those that see those type of things. (I assume Bevvy and Jon would see them.)
Of what we saw, I rather liked the gargoyles that depicted people rather than monsters and the figures around the big front door. Both were very impressive. Who am I kidding? The entire place was bloody impressive.
As well as the individual heads on the statues, I quite like the capitals they are standing on.
Having filled our senses with Gothic Glory, we headed home, thankful that the thick fog that had blighted our morning with milky impenetrability, had finally lifted.
