The Stockholm fähnlein is a non-profit organisation that is involved in historical re-enactments. Their historical period is that of the Swedish King Gustav Vasa. Originally a small military unit that took part in battles between 1521 and 1523, the fähnlein was organised in the German fashion of the time. They tried to defeat the Danish but were unsuccessful. Today we saw their camp at the Lübeckerbräschen.
The Lübeckerbräschen is a torn down part of the Visby town wall. It is supposedly the spot where the fähnlein broke through in 1524 as part of their attack on Visborg castle. It was a failed attempt to defeat the Danish. For the Vasa boys, it was a monumental failure, and the Danes remained on Gotland until 1645.
All that aside, I reckon this is something the Weasels would totally enjoy. Imagine dressing up as peasants and living out of tents for a week, in the lee of a castle wall. Sounds just like a dig to me.
Rather than anything Weasel-ish, we were there for medieval festival week, having left home in the morning and hopped aboard the ferry to the island. It was a wonderful way to start a holiday. A 90 minute drive, a three and a half hour ferry ride and, finally, a ten-minute drive to our accommodation. Genius.
The ferry ride was characterised by scores of people sewing their outfits for the week. Like busy little sewing bees, they chatted and laughed (and sometimes indulged in a bit of singing), as the very busy ferry made its way across the Baltic.
I took a stroll around the ferry at one stage and was very pleased to see so many groups, sitting together, playing cards or board games rather than individuals glued to screens. It was a joyful atmosphere that, eventually saw us dock and disperse at Visby.
Of course, Mirinda visited Gotland with Sharon and Jud last year while I stayed at home, minding the girls, so it was all new for me. Mirinda’s experience aided in our finding our way into the ancient city.
After resting up from our most arduous journey, we went for a wander and the chance to get our wristbands for the week. This proved pretty simple though I’m not sure what the green band will look like by the end of the eight days.
Let’s see. This is what it looked like today.
But, enough about wristbands. It was with far more wonder that we wandered around the festival areas, admiring the many people dressed in medieval haute couture. There were also a surprising number of nuns. And one monk. Lucky monk.
There were also stalls selling outfits of all social classes. From the lowest peasant to the just bordering on royalty. I even spotted a very elaborate jester carrying his child on his shoulders.
The whole place was so full of dressing up, I felt quite under dressed in my normal shorts and t-shirt. Mind you, I reckon I was a lot cooler than most of them. Except, possibly, for this chap, waiting for a drink at the bar of The Black Sheep.
A couple of much-needed glasses of beer were had at the pub. It was all very English with Irish music. Most unexpected. The pub, not the beer. The beer was Swedish. Even Mirinda’s pear cider was Swedish.
As we sat and cooled off (the place had a cool breeze flowing through it) Mirinda watched a chap, busking outside. He juggled fire, balls, small dogs, everything he could get his hands on. He also swallowed fire and used people from the growing crowd around him.
I didn’t see anything of his act, given I wasn’t sitting by the window. Mirinda gave an excellent commentary of his theatrical antics to make up for my lack of visuals.
We eventually left the pub and walked up to the stora torget (big square) where we overheard an Australian discussing with a friend the Aussie Dilemma that Jason often talks about. The fact that lots of small stalls in Sweden require either cash or Swish, when most people only carry cards. And tourists don’t have Swish.
This particular Aussie had exchanged $1,000 in Australian money. I didn’t hear what he exchanged it for but it seemed like he had the system in the palm of his hand. Except if he tried to use cash in places that accept only cards.
When Mirinda was in Visby last year, she dragged Sharon and Jud into a tapas place that only accepts cards. It’s called Eden. I didn’t need any dragging to be enticed inside today. What an excellent restaurant. Highly recommended, and not just for the food. The service was delightful and the dogs an utter joy.
Dates wrapped in bacon, breaded aubergine, melon and feta salad, Asian style lamb, carpaccio and small beef tacos. What a feast!
After an exhausting first day’s skirmish, we headed back to our apartment accommodation for a much-needed rest before tomorrow’s onslaught.
