Trains and Tivoli

I need to correct something I may have said a wee while ago. I may have implied that Tivoli Gardens is in the middle of Copenhagen when it isn’t. It is, in fact, opposite Central Station. I don’t know where the centre of Copenhagen is because Tivoli is as far as I’ve been. Hopefully, one day, I’ll get to see the centre of Copenhagen.

That, however, was, literally, a long way down the track. First up this morning I had an early rise so I could have the apartment clean and tidy by 8am when I decided to start out for Stockholm Central. My train wasn’t due to leave until 10:22 but I wasn’t sure what peak hour would be like. I needn’t have worried.

I’m not sure when peak hour is in Stockholm but I wasn’t in it. I arrived at T-Centralen at 8:30am and that was after getting rid of the rubbish at the recycling bins, on the way.

I slowly and steadily made my way, via the lifts, to the main concourse where I sat and read.

And would you believe it, the train was fully booked. It’s remarkable that so many people catch the trains. Or is it because of the turmoil currently being experienced at airports, forcing people into the more environmentally friendly option?

After a few hours, I remembered the accidental first class journey I’d taken on the way up, a few weeks ago. Ignore what anyone says, first class is better for long journeys.

There was a lot of confusion at Malmö. The majority of people going on to Copenhagen didn’t know they’d have to switch trains. I had garnered enough information from overhearing various passengers, with various languages, using English, that the Copenhagen train would leave on the same platform, further along.

As we started to pull into Malmö, I was up and ready only to find, that the Copenhagen train was delayed. I had to wait 20 minutes. Still, after many hours of sitting down, it was quite nice stretching my legs.

I realised that there’s a reason why there’s a double line of raised studs on the platforms in Sweden. Passengers for boarding need to wait behind them so passengers leaving the train can easily move along the platform. A simple solution to a crowding problem. The trouble is, when people travel with far too much luggage, they feel the need to grab all the storage ASAP so they want to be standing as close to the train as possible.

There’s no curing stupidity. These people get in everyone’s way and delay things. They should travel by plane and leave trains for the more civilised among us.

The train was not so full on the second leg. I enjoyed the trip over the Bridge. Again. Before we slid into Copenhagen Station.

After checking in at the hotel, I had to visit Tivoli Gardens. I was far too intrigued after the FlixBus seemed to circle it when I arrived back in July.

And it’s amazing.

What appears from the outside to be a fair ground with screaming rides turns out to be a big garden full of flowers, green spaces, places to eat and drink and, of course, the rides. It’s like an island of pleasure inside a big city. It’s amazing.

Tivoli and Vauxhall, was created in 1843 by Georg Carstensen when he told King Christian VIII “…when the people are amusing themselves, they do not think about politics“. Obviously the king thought this was an excellent idea and told Georg to go for it. And he created an amazing wonderland that continues today.

I was looking for some real Danish food. I’d been too disappointed with the lack of Swedish food and wanted to at least have something Danish. I found a restaurant called Grøften. It served Danish food and beer in litre glasses. It has been at Tivoli since 1874. And it’s obvious why. As I sat and drank and ate, lots of people came and sat both inside and out.

My traditional meal started with herring and aquavit then something with potatoes and ham called ‘Skipper’s Lobscouse ad libitum’. The waitress suggested I put the butter in the middle, the beetroot on top and drop some Worcestershire sauce on top. She was so right. It was magnificent.

Having filled myself, I headed for a wander around the various parts of Tivoli. It is massive and has something for everyone. I don’t think you can have seen Copenhagen if you haven’t seen Tivoli.

Very quickly, I had to head back to the hotel for a sleep as I have a stupidly early start tomorrow.

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