Our first view of paradise

Our last breakfast at Château du Pin. A Parisian who lives in Washington and works as a translator for the IMF told us that Bretons had shutters because of the high level of furniture robbery that takes place in the region.

Château du Pin

Dotted around the Château du Pin are lots of interesting paintings. They feature either writing or musical notation. Each is very different – even the handwriting – with backgrounds somehow reflecting the writing. They are all in French so it’s difficult to work out what’s going on. I have spent days admiring them but this morning we found out that they are the work of Madame!

They represent authors and musicians, snatches of their work in their handwriting, and some artistic swooshes to give an impression of their lives. They are, on the whole, excellent. This also explains why Madame dresses in the typical artist’s white top with big round lapels and large buttons.

We eventually said our farewells to Madame and set off up the N12.


We managed to get as far as Guingamp before we stopped for a very long lunch. All we wanted was a wander, a crepe and a coffee. What we got was a wander and two hours in a creperie where we felt we were in trouble for not having cider. And it was definitely frowned upon that we wanted to leave before the obligatory three hours were up.

During our wander we did manage to see the famous black virgin in the church of Notre Dame de Bon Secours (stained glass at left). The 14th century church itself was quite amazing. It doesn’t have the normal transepts and the altar is just ‘plonked’ at one end. All very dim inside but that could also be the weather which continues grimly.

A few spots of rain accompanied us around the town centre where we admired the fountain through the drops.

Back on the road and up to Locquirec where we will be staying for the next three nights. Les Hotel des Bains is a very swish place which has its own bit of beach and lovely gardens and odd shaped trees. It has all you need (except for lunch) so we really don’t need to go anywhere else (except for lunch).

We checked in and wandered round the grounds and village. It is a port which seems to have run out of water – obviously a VERY low tide. We strolled along the seawall then across the beach.

Locquirec harbour at low tide

This is a popular seaside resort for the French and a few had ignored the grey weather and were frolicking on the beach with their kids. The usual array of beachside cafes and tourist shops and a very expensive antique shop where the small candlesticks start at 500€! Although sorely tempted, Mirinda managed to resist.

Beach front buildings, Locquirec

A very interesting church beckoned but I resisted – until tomorrow perhaps…it’s just across the road from the hotel.

Back at the hotel, Mirinda decided to go for a swim but was crowded out so settled on a bath instead and forget doing laps. Our room has a terrace that looks towards the sea and it has become my temporary office for all things journalistic.

Dinner was lovely and the sancerre delightfully chilled. After dinner we had a short stroll along the beach.

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