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Awake at 6 then 7 then 8 when I decided to get up.
After the usual French breakfast of various breadstuffs, we packed and left by 10. We ordered a taxi to take us to the car hire place, which is at St Malo station.
St Malo station has moved! The old one is sat derelict, a ruin, while the new one is all glass and modern. It has been built a bit further back along the track and looks great. The bus stops and taxi rank have also been moved back. It was a bit of a shock.
The front of the new St Malo station
Still, after the driver dropped us off we easily found Eurocar and waited while the guy faffed around a bit. Eventually (why is there always so much paperwork when you hire a car?) he gave us a key and told us where the car was parked.
Except it wasn’t. I searched the car park (it wasn’t very big) and eventually returned to the small office to say it wasn’t there – memories of York returned to haunt me! He obviously thought I was a moron and headed out to show me where it was. After he searched the car park a few times, he realised that the car was not in fact there. His face was all a-quizzical as he said he’d go and get another car. He turned up in a slightly smaller VW Golf, which was fine, and a new batch of paperwork for Mirinda to sign, which wasn’t. Anyway, eventually we were on our way.
Hit the N137 until the D20, through lovely Becherel. On to (Ricardo) Montauban-de-Bretagne until we spotted the very small sign for the Château de Pin. We stopped at the big metal gates and spoke to someone via the intercom. We drove into the lovely grounds and parked but were informed by the lady of the house that the room would not be ready till four. Fortunately we were able to leave our luggage. We went in search of food.
I’ve probably said this before in another journal but I can’t help myself having a moan. Between 12 and 2, most of France stops. Everything is shut. Just down the road from the château, the small town of Iffendic was pretty much closed except for a not very appealing bar, a French version of a café full of workers. Mirinda was not impressed. Having walked through the door, however, she felt she had to order something. She spoke English to the Japanese girl behind the bar who translated everything into French for the woman next to her who just kept saying ‘Non’. They had no Diet Coke, they had no bottled water. It was slightly surreal.
The church at Iffendic - also closed
We returned empty handed to the car and set off for Montfort-sur-Meu. This is bigger, lovelier town with lots of shops – all closed till 4, of course. But fortune was smiling down upon us and we managed to find a nice hotel with a restaurant attached – Le Relais de la Cane.
Mirinda coming out of the Relais de la Cane, Montfort
In the menu there was printed the French legend attached to Montfort and the hotel. We deciphered it thus: A young girl hidden away in a tower by the evil Montfort who, when St Nicholas popped over, turned the girl into a walking stick. St Nick took her with him as he needed a new walking stick. Now a ghostly apparition of the very walking stick will often appear near the tower. This seems odd but there you have it. Maybe I’ll find out the English version. Maybe we’ll stick with this one. The little travel dictionary we have does not have the word cane in it.
Had a delicious lunch (duck & pork fillet followed by profiteroles & crème brulee plus two gorgeous glasses of Grimbergen) then wandered back through the now open shops. Bought bread, cheese, fruit & cheese knife for dinner and a lovely sponge holder for hygiene back home. Don’t ask.
Spent a lovely 15 minutes chatting with the woman in the TIC. She piled us high with miles of brochures and a walking path book all in French which proved useless. Apparently she lives in Iffendic, which is no excuse. She told us to avoid bars as they are for working men.
Met the two coloured eyed dog at Château du Pin who let us know that our room was ready. He is very big and very smelly and the owners seem to ignore him even though he has a very big bark.
Two colour eyed dog of Château du Pin
Our room was unbelievable. It was in the roof, the Pierre Lotti room. Named for the French novelist, as are all the rooms of the château – that would be different novelists, not all named Pierre Lotti. So beautiful. Apparently it was once Madame’s studio but was transformed into a big wide room that spans the depth of the château. The bathroom/shower is in the centre and wonderfully designed.
Settled in easily and planned our next few days. Early night.
Pierre Lotti
