So this is julbord

Julbord is the traditional Swedish Christmas dinner. Like a smorgasbord, it features various dishes (similar to tapas) as well as glögg (extremely sweet mulled wine), beer and all the spirits you can drink. And tonight we went to one.

It was at a restaurant we accidentally found ages ago. It’s called Kumla Herrgård and was once a stately home. It also came highly recommended by Alex (of the Perfect Swedish Family).

‘Herrgård’ means mansion and Kumla is what the area used to be called. The first mention of the property dates from 1540 when the owners paid some tax. In 1947, the area changed its name from Kumla to Trollbäcken because there’s another Kumla in Närke. It’s east of Stockholm. Kumla Herrgård, on the other hand, is about six minutes away from us. Which is good because Kumla, Närke is over 2.5 hours away.

Our booking was for 5pm and the old mansion looked very inviting.

As we entered we were invited to take a cup of glögg. Mirinda did the honours, making sure to add the nuts and dried fruit which we’d have not known about had Camilla not given us a bottle to experiment with last Sunday. Mind you, like last Sunday, it was way too sweet for me.

At our table, we were told that the cold dishes would be delivered to our table (because of Covid) but the hot dishes were in the middle of the room and dessert and coffee was in the next room.

When she delivered our cold dishes, the waitress wasn’t sure about the English for some of them. She excused herself and went and collected the chef who was South African.

Having explained what each of the little dishes were, we then had a lovely chat about living in Sweden after South Africa. He told us how he’d met a girl, fallen in love, lived with her for something like 20 years. They then married and divorced within a year. He had two sons, and they used to skate on the lakes in winter but the rising temperatures have made this no longer possible.

Mirinda told him that her iPhone claimed it was going to snow on Christmas Day. He hoped so. I feel the need to add that my not-an-iPhone does not agree.

The first (cold) course was mostly made up of fish and meat. Obviously there was a couple of herring dishes as well as two distinctly different flavoured salmon both with their own sauces. Meatwise, there was reindeer, venison sausage, ham and an animal we’d never heard of but seemed to be a type of reindeer. Again, each had its own sauce.

There was also a little bit of green, served with nuts and dried fruit, and a small bowl of delicious new potatoes. This was the total veg. Nicktor would have loved it.

The main, hot, course consisted of Swedish meatballs, pork ribs, reindeer and Jansson’s frestelse. The latter I was very interested to try given I’d made some earlier in the day. This was in preparation of our own Julbord on Christmas Eve.

It was all delicious.

Then came dessert. This was a bit disappointing because there didn’t seem to be a single, Swedish Christmas dessert. I know they particularly like rice pudding but there wasn’t any of that. There was a lot of different sweets – bits of broken toffee, rocky road, chocolate. There were three styles of crème caramel but otherwise, that was it.

I’m not complaining. They were all yummy, particularly for lo-carb people. It is a huge sugar rush in which, when you only indulge sometimes, is very pleasant. I was quite intrigued by a wrapped sweet called Polka Kola, a mint, raspberry toffee. Odd but yummy.

I enjoyed an amaretto with dessert, a pleasure I have not had for many a meal.

And that was it for our first julbord.

Very enjoyable.

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1 Response to So this is julbord

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