A very long queue

I have to say that any desire to go and visit the Statue of Liberty and Ellis Island (both of which were closed to the public when we were here ten years ago) vanished in a cloud of steam when we saw the queue that stretched for…well a very, very long way. In the sun, out of the sun, across paths, through parks. It just didn’t stop. It’s the sort of queue that people in the middle would probably have no idea what they are queuing for but figured it was a good thing to do.

Before looking at any queues, we left the hotel with the idea of wandering around the bottom of Manhattan Island. Before heading across to where the Twin Towers used to be and which is now called Ground Zero, we found a great place for breakfast called Roxy’s Diner.

I had pancakes and bacon while Mirinda had the French toast and bacon, both with lashings of maple syrup and lovely fresh coffee. It really felt like New York then, and set us up for a good bit of sightseeing walking.

Ground Zero is still a big building site. Behind where the towers stood a new tower is being built though not as big while still very impressive in design. It is about half finished.

When it is complete, it’s going to be one sexy office building. Today there was a group of guys washing the windows while another group stood the other side of the window watching them. This was up about 30 floors. What a bunch of jokers.

Walking along the Battery Park area of Manhattan, dodging joggers and cyclists, we realised how lovely this part of New York is. We didn’t visit this part last time. It was very normal and not very touristy. Families out with their kids, strange people exercising, women running with strollers, the occasional dog on a lead because they are not allowed on the grass.

A big surprise was in store for us at the Irish Hunger Memorial. Imagine a giant dinner plate tilted at a slight angle with a full size stone cottage with walls and wild plants around it. It was very odd and yet, very beautiful. The plants are all natives of Ireland and, therefore, England as well and walking through it, felt like being home.

In all, the site covers half an acre and is the idea and construction of artist, Brian Tolle. It is supposed to highlight the Irish famine 1845-52.

The cottage, which Mirinda thought looked fake, is actually real. It was donated by the Slacks of Attymass and reconstructed on the site. Apparently it was once the cottage of a bunch of farmers who were struck by famine, leaving it to fall into the state we now see it.

Dotted throughout the site are rocks with Irish counties carved into them. Here’s one for Claire.

I haven’t really done it justice. It is a lovely little memorial and very well done. It is truly like some giant has picked up half an acre of Ireland and plonked it down in Manhattan.

The memorial is not mentioned anywhere I’ve seen and is one of those wonderful things you just happen to find by accident.

The sun was getting stronger as we walked on. According to my Aunty Jan, New York in July is awful, weather wise. In fact, the guidebook I have claims that most New Yorkers leave the city in July because the weather is so awful.

We stopped at a Starbucks which had a nice shady area outside where we could watch the crazy people and listen to the mediocre gospel singers.

I’m not that keen on the concept of clone towns – everything looking exactly like everywhere else is anathema to me. But…and it’s a big but…I do love the fact that I can walk into any Starbucks and ask for my usual (grande, triple shot, hazelnut, latte) and they not only just take the order and make it, it also tastes exactly the same. It is a lovely, warm, squishy bit of security that keeps me happy.

All coffee-d up, we kept wandering until we hit the queue I mentioned earlier. I couldn’t believe how long it was. OK, it’s summer, it’s a Saturday and the weather is fantastic but, really, do all those people honestly enjoy standing around in the heat waiting for the people in front of them to move forward a few feet every hour?

A little distance beyond the queue is a war memorial consisting of huge slabs of concrete (and they are massive) with names carved in them, standing on edge, like playing cards, with a very big bronze eagle at the end. It’s quite an amazing sight and quite difficult to put into a picture.

What wasn’t difficult was the ferry full of people that was rocked scarily by the wake of another boat. We stood and watched as the ferry full of people expecting to leave for Ellis Island at any moment were broadsided with heaving waves.

It was more like a funfair from hell than a docked ferry. The screams and squeals were very loud as the ferry came very close to turning completely over. It was like when you’re on a swing and trying to get it to spin over the cross bar. Except it was a ferry, in the water and I really don’t think anyone really wanted it to go right over.

But, all was well, no-one fell over board, no-one needed rescuing by Superman or someone similar. Actually this is what I expect in New York. A caped crusader to suddenly appear out of the clear blue sky, standing on the end of the ferry, steadying it with his super hero feet. It sort of matches the skyline.

After almost giving up out of despair, we found the terminal for the Staten Island Ferry. Now I was assured by a guide from the Red Circle ferry ten years ago that the Staten Island ferry was the brainchild of a very wealthy philanthropist who set it up as a charity in order for New Yorkers to travel in and out of Manhattan for free every day.

All very nice and a lovely fairy story but so not true! The liar! It was actually 25 cents to travel on the ferry back in 1817 aboard the Nautilus. The price dropped in 1897 to 5c but then steadily rose until, in 1997, it was made free for all foot passengers.

The amazing thing is the sheer volume of people waiting for it on a lovely Saturday at 12:30. It looked like a thousand people to me but Mirinda claims it was merely hundreds. It was enough to almost put you off. Oddly though, once you get on the ferry, as long as you don’t want to sit outside, there is a lot of room inside. All of the crowds merely disperse into…well, nothing.

So we had a very comfortable 25 minute journey across to the Island where we wandered around, looking for somewhere for lunch before settling on the Gavel Grill where we had a delicious cheese and bacon burger each. Really, they were fantastic burgers. Like burgers used to be. I truly recommend this place to anyone wanting lunch on Staten Island. Ten stars from me.

[2025 UPDATE: The Gavel Grill closed permanently some time after the plague. Their website no longer exists. Sad, but true.]

We were tempted to go and see a few touristy things on Staten Island but it was too hot and we were feeling a bit drowsy so we just hopped on the next ferry back to Manhattan and made the gradual trip back to the room for our afternoon nap. Well, Mirinda’s nap. I wandered up to Duane Reade for supplies before retiring to the bar for a few Peroni’s. I love New York.