The House Husband in Sweden

Waxholm III is an amazing old boat. She was built in 1903 and has had a rather chequered life. Her name has changed, as well as her ‘job’. At first, called S/S Skärgården, she operated out of Norrköping but, by 1908 she was sold to operate as a ferry service from Stockholm to Waxholm, out in the archipelago. She was renamed Waxholm III.

Things trundled along until 1961 when her engine was declared shot, and she was laid up. Three years later, some private company in Waxholm decided she’d make a good café so they bought and permanently moored her. Eventually, she had so deteriorated, rusty and held together by only barnacles, she was declared no longer a ship.

Finally, in 1991, Stromma bought her and, over three years, returned her not just to her former glory but also back to being a boat again. She has been roaming the Stockholm archipelago ever since. And today, we spent around 11 hours on her.

We have been on lots of Stromma tours around Stockholm and have never been disappointed. Actually, I should rephrase that. The new AI guide is a bit of a disappointment but, generally, if you ignore that, we’ve never been disappointed with a Stromma tour. And today, given we had two, not one, LIVE guides meant the day was perfect.

But, going back a bit, shortly before midsummer, when our holiday destination was shifted to Stockholm, I tried to book onto the Stromma Midsummer cruise, but it was oversubscribed, and we were put on a waiting list that, as far as I’m aware, we’re still waiting on. I then discovered the all day archipelago tour, including stops, meals and a happy hour. I booked straight away and today we set off.

It really was a brilliant day, packed with more things than I could possibly remember to include so I’ll just write about a few.

There was Strindberg’s house on the island of Kymmendö.

A number of years ago, we visited Dalarö and discovered that August Strindberg rather liked the place and would catch the ferry across to the island which he also fell in love with. So much so that he settled there, partying with friends and his numerous wives.

He then, while exiled from Sweden, lovingly, wrote possibly his most famous book, The People of Hemsö; Hemsö being the thinly disguised island of Kymmendö. While most of the world loved the book, the people of the island hated it. They banned Strindberg and his descendants from ever returning to the island.

Then, shortly before her death aged 105, Anne-Marie Hagelin (nee Strindberg) August’s daughter, was given permission as his last surviving child, to visit. The guide told us this and I have no reason to doubt him though I haven’t been able to find any evidence for it. Or if she did, in fact, make the trip.

(Note: they sell the book in the small shop now.)

I enjoyed all the Strindberg stuff, but I think my over-riding memory of the island of Kymmendö will be this drainage system.

Back on the boat we had a lovely lunch and chatted with a Canadian couple who come from Winnipeg in Manitoba. (Now, where have I heard that name before?) They were Kirstin and Myles and were great fun. We spent a lot of time aboard Waxholm III chatting to them about various things.

They are in Sweden for only a few days before heading to Denmark and Norway as a sort of Scandi Break. Mirinda gave them our details so, who knows, when they return to Sweden, we may get a call. They know we have a stuga…and we know someone who knows Winnipeg rather well. Just saying…

Another stop we made was at Bullerö, a nature reserve comprising around 900 islands.

And what a beautiful place, the main island is. The artist Bruno Liljefors lived, painted and hunted there. He loved painting the many birds that visited the island. In fact, he bought the island in 1908 because of the birds that came.

He was also quite keen on hares.

The painting above is in the Thielska Gallery where we went the other day. Mirinda was very taken with its beauty.

My favourite thing about Bullerö, however is the fact that a newspaper king and very successful businessman by the name of Torsten Kreuger bought the islands from Liljefors, in 1923. He bequeathed them to his three sons who were subsequently offered an enormous sum of money by an oil company, possibly Shell. The boys refused the mountain of money and sold instead, at a much lower price, to the Swedish Government on the proviso that they keep it as a nature reserve. Which they have.

I love that story.

Another highlight of the day was our trip through the narrowest of passages in the archipelago. It is called Baggensstäket.

Back in 1719, during the Great Pillage, there was a minor battle here. It was a result of the Russians having avoided detection by the Waxholm Fortress. But they were spotted by someone a little more vigilant, and a Swedish regiment headed out to stop them. A rather odd and disorganised battle ensued, resulting in the Russians running away. The Swedish leader, Rutger Fuchs, was hailed as a great hero following the routing. They named him the saviour of Stockholm, no less.

Of course, it didn’t stop the nasty Russians who managed to burn a lot of towns along the east coast of Sweden including Dalarö and, of course, Trosa.

The passage is very narrow indeed. We passed through it today. It looked like you could walk from one island to the other though, given the draught of the Waxholm III, I’m thinking swimming would be more advisable.

Continuing on our way, we headed for Sandhamn where we stopped in order to stretch our legs again and hear about Viveca Sten, who the guide mistakenly called Jennifer.

We then had a delicious dinner starting with herring and ending with salmon. Which, of course, brings our tally to 11 in our International Cuisine Game: Spanish, Peruvian, French, Italian, Thai, Greek, Lebanese, Japanese, Austrian, British and Swedish. I don’t think it’s cheating to include Swedish.

There was also a very pleasant Happy Hour (called Happy Ship) which, it has to be admitted, Gary indulged in.

For a day of, basically, doing very little, by the time we reached the flat, we were both completely zonked. Still, it was one of the most delightful zonked episodes I can remember having. I would have no hesitation recommending the Thousand Islands Archipelago Cruise with Stromma.

Back in the 17th century, it was very peaceful in the Nacka area in Stockholm. There were a few summer stugas, but the only roads were tracks through the woods and meadows and the only traffic were horses and carts. Except on the water. There were row boats and sailing ships there but that was it. There was a lot of wildlife including those modern strangers, songbirds.

In around 1740, the wealthy merchant Claes Grill* and his cousin and wife, Anna Johanna, hired the Stockholm born architect, Carl Hårleman to build them a summer stuga in the Nacka area, a place called Svindersvik.

In 2025, there are roads, cars, high rise flats, noise, all the trappings of the civilised. And there is very little birdsong. There are a few ducks down by the water and the usual crows picking at the almost finished plates of café visitors, but that’s it.

If you are deaf, a visit to Svindersvik viewed from the right direction, would be like a glimpse into the past. I’m not deaf, so I found the traffic noise all pervasive and very annoying. I think the silence of Trosa has spoiled me.

Anyway, the reason I’m talking about Svindersvik is because we visited it today. It’s a part of the Nordiska Museet collection of properties.

The house was built for the summer months when Claes and Anna Johanna decided it was too hot, and the tourists were too predominant, on Gamla Stan, where they lived for the other three seasons. They would pack up their summer gear and the servants and head off, out of the city.

They were quite keen on the Rococo period if the house is anything to go by. Or maybe Carl the Architect was. It’s a bit swirly for me, but at least it’s not Baroque.

That makes the house sound a bit la-di-da but it’s far from it. Like most summer stugas, Svindersvik was quite plain. Well, if you ignore the hand painted wallpaper in each room.

Actually, the stuga is quite modest. There’s only four rooms and a vestibule, and no upper floor. Okay, there is a staircase that leads up to a room that contains a very old billiard table, but, that’s it.

Along with the wallpaper, most impressive was the dining room with eight doors and the extendable bed oin the bedroom. Especially the bed because it looked quite tiny. I know the average height of people was shorter in the 18th century but the bed would dangle a 12 year olds legs, let alone a fully-grown successful merchant and his cousin/wife.

The summer stuga is not the only building on the property. There is also the kitchen and the pavilion. The kitchen, for obvious reasons was far enough away to allow only kitchen staff to burn if a fire broke out. It comprises a couple of rooms and the world’s biggest skafferi. I was dead jealous.

But the biggest surprise came when we entered the Pavilion. Seriously, an audible gasp was heard from everyone as the door opened and we stepped through.

Originally, it was built when the Grills lived there but no-one knows what it was used for or why. Then, in the 1780’s, when Baroness Catharina Charlotta De Geer moved in, she turned it into a magnificent ballroom with guest bedrooms off to the sides. She only used the stuga for seven years because she died.

A very impressive feature of the pavilion is the tiled fire place which, the guidebook claims, is one of the tallest in Sweden. And, yes, it’s easily the biggest I’ve ever seen.

Of course, the entire tour was in Swedish, but we were given very helpful Guide Notes in English which made things an awful lot easier for us.

All in all, we had a lovely time at Svindersvik. If you ignore the noise and smell of the traffic and the unexpected appearance of Miss Cranky Pants for a bit. And can I just say that, while we had to wait a long time for them, the ham and cheese rolls made fresh at the Svindersvik café are delicious. If anyone reading this is lured to visit, try one, you will not be disappointed.

And, talking about food, tonight we were back on the International Cuisine Quest. At first we thought we’d found a British pub with real British food (sausages and mash, for instance which is a personal favourite) and, to be fair, we did find it only the kitchen closed shortly before we arrived. We had a couple of drinks then decided to try the really, really popular restaurant across the road from the flat.

Every night, there is a queue at Dersch. I tried to book for dinner but every slot had ‘Waiting list’ written on it unless you wanted to eat at 9-9:30pm. Having missed out at the British pub, we decided to give it a shot at Dersch. And were shown a table straight away and had the most delicious schnitzel served with really nice mashed potato.

So that takes our international tally to nine: Spanish, Peruvian, French, Italian, Thai, Greek, Lebanese, Japanese and Austrian. Who knows what tomorrow may bring?

* Incidentally, Claes died on my birthday, back in 1767. And he only had one eye, which is why he only ever allowed his portrait to be painted from the left side only.