After breakfast we left the bags at the hotel and hit Oslo for the final time. Popped into the cathedral – there was a choir of young boys rehearsing, which made a rather heavenly backdrop for what is a lovely church.

I’m not denigrating it but I think cathedral makes it sound a lot more grand than it is. A lot of beggars outside. One asked me to give him money “for the sake of God“. I told him I didn’t believe in God and walked into the church. It really is very annoying the number of beggars in Oslo. A lot of them are refugees from other countries who beg as a profession. Most of them look quite capable of doing a proper job – good health, all their limbs – and it really annoys me that I have to work! Anyway, they’d all gone by the time we got out.

Most of Oslo was very crowded. There was a run on, so lots of roads closed off. Also the park at the end of Carl Josef’s Gate was full of booths with people yabbering away (like Speaker’s Corner) and handing out bits of paper – no idea what about.

We decided to check out the palace before going on to Ibsen’s place. It has lovely gardens but not a lot of flowers. The palace guards are a bit twitchy! They don’t stand still like in London. Wander round, pose for photos, shoot small children…amazing. There’s lots of lovely statues. The Norwegians are mad for them. There was one of a school girl outside the Macdonalds in Bergen! Very lifelike if somewhat large.

The Ibsen museum was excellent. It’s his flat and his study is exactly how it was. Mind you, he sounds like he was a right bastard: blaming the world because his father gambled away the family fortune and spending his life proving his worth to the world in purely material fashion. Still, he was a brilliant playwright who managed to change the world of theatre.

He was short, like Grieg. Just a few inches taller. Nowhere near as nice. I reckon he asked Grieg to compose the music for Peer Gynt because he was shorter!

We were then off to the Grand Hotel (following Ibsen’s footsteps) to give them a generous donation ie to buy coffee and a cake. Very nice but way expensive. I especially love the way you have to leave your stuff in the cloakroom and then find out afterwards that it’s going to cost you to get them out! Makes me wonder what they’d do if you’d spent your last kroner on the cakes! Maybe pawn your stuff or just keep stuff to the value of 30 kroner?

We were then gong to go over to the Vigerland Sculpture Park but the only way was by tube (the trams not running because of the marathon) so, instead, we walked down to the Akerhaus and wandered around the parapet.

Oslo harbour from the Akerhaus

It was a pretty tiring last day! We eventually picked our bags up then on to the excellent airport express. Sitting at the airport writing this. We saw the Italians from the Fana Folklore night in the Carl Josef’s Gate and I spoke to them in Italian and they shrieked with laughter – the women, anyway.

[That's all I wrote in my journal and I can't remember what the trip home was like but it was probably awful!]

Train day!

Took a final walk through Bergen – it was raining on and off. Got the 10:30 train…7 hours to Oslo. Arrived about 15 minutes late. Pretty uneventful trip.

Managed to get a room at the Terminus Hotel again from the TIC at Oslo Station. Then off to Druen for a delicious meal (of course) followed by the magical cardamom ice cream.

Caught the tram back to the hotel. Tomorrow is the last day of the holiday…

Very weird day. Started normal enough. Started walking to the aquarium but it got too hilly so we turned back. Were going to the Rosenkrantz Tower and Hakon’s Hall but got there to find that, although normally open from 12 – 6 on Thursdays (after September 1) they don’t open until 3!!

So we wandered around the shops and spent plenty of money, bought fishy stuff at the market and hit the TIC – Mirinda looking for a loo. Consequently found out that the Fana Folklore night is on tonight. These things normally finish on August 31 so we were stoked. Booked tickets at a baggage shop (?) then headed back to the hotel to wait for 3pm.

Watched Beverly Hills 90210 then set off once again site-seeing. Firstly we went to Hakon’s Hall which was pretty impressive. It takes it’s name from the builder and was erected between 1247 and 1261. Over the years it’s been through a lot, including an explosion in 1944 when a German ammunition ship blew up in the harbour just below. This left only the walls standing. It’s now used for functions by the army – the floor and roof have been replaced! We then went on to the Rozenkrantz Tower which is next door but…it was still shut!! Odd.

So we had a coffee on the Bryggen and spotted this automatic umbrella machine on the way back. Just shows how much it rains in Bergen!!

Automat umbrella machine at harbour

Then back to the hotel to prepare for the folklore night.

We joined the massive bus (about three full size coaches with a bendy bit in the middle and bright red) which filled up rapidly with all sorts of people. The end section where we were also contained a boisterous group of non-English speaking Italians – they were a lot of fun. An old woman in traditional costume gave us the schpiel then invited the Italian tour guide to translate but she was a mere slip of a girl and didn’t. Hopefully she will learn to in future! So, instead, the old woman gave her a ream of explanations written in French for them. Now that was weird! So, we had a bunch of Italians struggling to read French and generally trying to speak louder than anyone else.

First stop was the Fana Church and some indescribably lovely singing by an angel…or so it sounded. Then back onto the BR Bus and on to the farm.

We wandered up the hill, in the dark, until we came to a blaze of light streaming out from a big room. We entered the lovely bare wooded room with benches and tables and waited for the entertainment. Unfortunately the Italians thought that THEY were the entertainment. Any time the old woman tried to tell us something there was a loud series of ‘Shhhhh’ in various languages. It was funny but annoying as well since we only heard a bit of what she said.

We all got porridge that wasn’t porridge and flatbread, pretzels and salami. All very nice but the porridge was a bit much for the old tum. It was a strange combination of things including lots of butter.

Mirinda tried to strike up a conversation with the lonely Norwegian guy next to her:
Mirinda: Are you from Bergen?
HIM: Yes. (pause)
Mirinda: Do you like it here?
HIM: Yes. (pause)
Mirinda: Not much for conversation, eh?
HIM: What?
Mirinda: Would you like some juice?
HIM: Yes.
and his face never changed. Eerie guy. Probably eats squirrels.

Anyway, apart from Mr Personality, the night was a lot of fun with folky dancing, songs and music. We (Mirinda & I) were dragged up and danced with one of the girls – that was funny. Finally we all had to “Stand up for your country!” This meant singing a song with your kinsmen that typified your homeland.

The Italians stood up and sang all 38 verses of Ol Sole Mio, a Danish guy sang very well, some Welsh folks sang a beautiful song…in Welsh…and we sang Kookaburra Sits in the Old Gum Tree. Eventually we all wandered down the hill to the BR Bus and got dropped back in Bergen.

All in all, a very Outer Limits night.

Slept in until 8am this morning! I’ve been waking at 7am for the whole of Norway! So an extra hour (Woo Hoo). Mirinda was worse, she missed breakfast. The stupid cleaning woman tried to come in thrice. Sport of knock then open, no pause. In fact she opened before she knocked just to make sure she caught me on the loo. Not really but almost. Anyway, eventually we relented and left the room.

First stop was the internet café to check mail. A bit of a ruction at work that didn’t really bother me and which was immediately shoved to the back of my brain. Also an email from Lisa saying how much she’s looking forward to seeing Mirinda in France – oh dear, looks like she DIDN’T get the message Mirinda left! After all this excitement it was off to the bus station.

Talk about massive. You walk along underground and there are stairs up to each bus stop.

Got the bus easy enough then off to Fantoft to look at the stave church. It was a bit of a hike up a hill but eventually the suburban streets turned to woods and there, in a clearing, suddenly, it was. It looked lovely, except for the wire fencing around it. It was a bit annoying that we had to pay to get in as there isn’t really anything there. No guide book, no explanations. According to the Rough Guide, the original was moved in 1880-ish and rebuilt differently then burnt down by arsonists in 1992 then subsequently completely rebuilt. Sure it looks lovely but it’s not even a real church any more. Anyway, we saw it.

Then it was back to the bus stop and off to Troldhaugen, Edvard Grieg‘s house.

A wonderful place – after a horrid walk alongside an express way to get there. There was an excellent film about his life based on his letters in the little theatrette. Then lots of his life written on big cards throughout the museum. Then a tour through his house which has to be the cutest ‘famous’ residence I’ve ever seen. There is no guide book but the guide human was very good.

Troldhaugen

We then checked out his composing ‘hut’ overlooking the lake and then down to the lake to see his tomb. It is high up in the wall of the hill, he and his wife, staring at the lake for eternity. Beautiful. Such a lovely spot, so tranquil, so peaceful, so…but wait what is that growling in the background? Those fumes? Oh my God! It’s an express way right next door. Such a shame. I can’t see Grieg composing anything there now, except maybe heavy metal to drown out the heavy metal outside his house.

Valiantly trying to ignore the din, we had lunch on a bench overlooking the lake then walked back to the bus stop for our return to Bergen.

Stopped off at the groovy café for a cap and a lat. In the square a band was playing then some guy started going on like Billy Graham. People in the crowd were handing out pieces of paper that said “Den dype rynken I pannen: hvor er den fra? Forsvar retten til asyl.*” We asked the girl on reception at our hotel what this meant but she could only give us something about people being calculators. Apparently, it’s something to do with immigration. Go figure. Crazy Norwegians.

We walked down to a Japanese/Thai restaurant near the pier for dinner. Mirinda had the Japanese chicken while I had the Thai chicken. Had a very weird waitress. Whenever we ordered anything she answered ‘yes’ as if she had already known. It took forever for her to bring the bill, which, naturally, made Mirinda a bit ‘toe-ey’.

Eventually we walked back in the pouring rain, yesterday being the one full day of sunshine for September. When we got back to our room, there was a very noisy party going on across the road. They stopped at around 10:30. That was nice of them.

* 2011 note: Using Google translate on the Norwegian above, I come up with: “The deep wrinkles in his forehead where is it from? Defend the right to asylum.“

Stunningly gorgeous day. Blue skies from start to finish. We celebrated the end of the rain by going up the funicular to the national park of Bergen at Floyen. Very crowded in the carriages but worth it at the top. The view was brilliant. So clear. The complete opposite to yesterday.

View of Bergen from Floyen

Met Dale at the top. She’s leaving Bergen tonight on a liner to Newcastle. Takes 24 hours! She walked down while we took the funicular back.

Then it was off to the twin museums of the Schotstuene (the Bryggen Assembly Rooms) and the Hanseatic Museum. Fabulous places, all real life stuff.

The assembly rooms were in three lots, each from different times. In the Hanseatic there were rooms from merchants and journeymen to apprentices. The apprentices had to sleep in cupboards, two to a straw filled mattress barely big enough for a ten year old.

We then sat on the pier and had smoked salmon rolls again and some lovely plums. Dale was there with another Aussie girl she’d met at the Youth Hostel.

We then trotted off and collected St Mary’s Church. Had to pay to go in which was a bit annoying. We always give something but don’t like being told to do it!! Anyway, it’s a dark gloomy place. I found a Salome painted by Elias Fiigenschoug somewhere between 1630 and 1695. Couldn’t get a picture of it though, too dark.

Dropped into a groovy café for coffee then to a little dolls house shop which we were enjoying until this really rude German woman told me I should take my backpack off and be careful. Cow. I wanted to tell her what I think her parents should have done instead of conceiving her but, of course, I’m too well mannered, so we just left. And I seethed for a few hours. Will have to go back as it looks like an excellent shop. When not crowded with rude Germans, of course.

Went back to the hotel to write postcards and rest. It started getting cloudy but not for long.

I went for a walk up to the station and booked our train seats for Friday. And by God, I got it right! I had no more to pay. Boy am I happy. All trip I’ve had this niggling little thought that I’d somehow stuffed the booking up and today was the joyous day of reckoning. Woo hoo!

We had pizza at Dolly Dimples then walked round town. Lovely clouds in the sky.

Bergen Day! After breakfast in the basement we set off downtown. First up Mirinda realises she’s lost her umbrella and since we’re in a city where it rains 500 days a year, decides she’ll need to buy one, which we did.

Strolled through the fish market then on to the Bryggen. What an amazing place. Strolled through shops, bought some stuff, saw lots of stuff to buy later.

The Bryggen

Had smoked salmon rolls from the fish market and ate them on the end of the pier.

Also collected a church – the Church of the Cross – in the middle of the town. Very nice and warm with lovely stained glass. Popped into the TIC – massive place. You have to take a ticket and wait to be called.

Then went on Bergen in a Nutshell. Started on a big red bus then on a cable car. Lovely tour of the city but when we got to the top of Ulriken it was so cloudy we couldn’t actually see anything…except the clouds of course. Actually the clouds sort of shifted a few times. We had lovely cinnamon things at the top and I mistakenly bought a non-alcoholic beer which, thank God, I didn’t finish. It was gross.

Bergen in a Nutshell tour bus

After the tour Mirinda wandered round the massive mall and I logged on and checked our email at an Internet café. Then we slowly dragged ourselves back to the hotel, exhausted. We’ve been overspending so it was Burger King for dinner. We ate it down on the pier which was lovely. We watched the ferry come in from Ballestrande. It had stopped raining and was a lovely evening.

Our last day in Fjaerland. Spent the morning walking out of town, in the rain, in the opposite direction that I went yesterday. A lovely walk. Then we went for a final coffee in the coffee/book shop. The population of this tiny town (about 300) are now starting to recognise us and say hi in passing.

The ferry finally arrived and with it the bus to the Jostelbreen Glacier Museum where we are now headed. This is an excellent award winning museum at the end of the fjord – I walked by it yesterday but didn’t realise it at the time. We played with the exhibits and found out what makes glaciers tick. Also watched an amazing panoramic film of the Jostelbreen Glacier.

We then climbed back onto the bus and set off to see the real thing. This was so brilliant! I drank the water in the pool that is the run off of the glacier. It was cold.

While we were there, this girl asked me to take her photo in front of the glacier. Then Mirinda started talking to her. Turns out she’s from Randwick and has been travelling around Europe for the last 5 months. Her name’s Dale.

Then we all piled back onto the bus and headed back for the ferry. Then we all piled onto the ferry for the trip back up the fjord to Ballestrande. Then we all piled onto a bigger ferry that will take us to Bergen.

Mirinda and Dale talked for the 4 hour and 45 minute trip – except for ten minutes which we spent outside getting some delicious air. I sat next to a girl who seemed to be studying paediatrics. She didn’t talk to me at all.

We arrived at Bergen at 8:45pm – what a long day – and walked to the Hotel Charm and installed ourselves in room 305. Watched Face Off courtesy of the TV then drifted quickly off to sleep. Tomorrow we attack Bergen.

Raining though light this morning. The fjord still looks brilliant even when covered in cloud and seen through misty rain.

We visited the two bookshops we’d missed yesterday and I collected the church. Very cute but not very old.

The name of the church is just Fjaerland kyrkje (kyrkje = church in Norwegian). It is thought that there was a church built on the site around 1600 but it was destroyed by a storm about ten years later. The existing church was built in 1861 when the old one was demolished. In 1931 the church was reconstructed with annexes added to both of its long sides. The oldest fixture in the church is the six arm chandelier which hangs in the chancel. This was donated to the church by two parents after they recovered the body of their daughter who had died in an accident.

And then there’s the baptism dish donated by the mother of a German officer who was killed in 1910 on Fjaerland Mountain – he’s buried in the church. It is all very nice but it seems the church only benefits when someone dies…

Mirinda booked next weeks accommodation at the Hotel Charm in Bergen. We bought rolls and meat at the supermarket and had lunch back at the hotel. Then snoozed for a bit.

Then I went for a walk to Bøyum (left Mirinda sleeping). Lovely stroll up to the end of the fjord. The fjord was created when the glacier started retreating at the end of the Ice Age. Right at the end is a huge muddy, marshy, boggy place which is now a bird sanctuary. I thought I could walk to the glacier but stopped (as it turned out) well short of it. It was a lovely walk. This place is very peaceful and not at all cold. It rained lightly for most of the day.

We went to dinner at 7 – tonight it was soup, schnitzel and cloud berry pudding. All very nice. The hotel was empty of other diners tonight because of a wedding at the Mundal Hotel up the road. We were in bed by 9.30!!!